Langbaan team aims to take over former Pok Pok space with new restaurant, OK Chicken

The Oregonian hasn’t had a gossip column in years (decades?). However, given its potential to affect the Portland culinary scene, a chance encounter earlier this year virtually begged for a blind item.

A reporter saw two top lieutenants for Akkapong Earl Ninsom, the chef-owner of award-winning Portland restaurants Langbaan, Eem, Yaowarat, and others, behind the chain link fence that has surrounded Pok Pok since it closed during the pandemic, while strolling down Southeast Division Street this spring.

This might have been an instance of a hospitality organization testing out some long-vacant property in the center of Portland’s restaurant row. However, as Eric Nelson and Sam Smith approached the sidewalk and announced that they were leaving for a trip to Northern Thailand, the implication became more obvious.

In summary, a business partner and a chef from Ninsom’s local empire were scouting the original site of what was once America’s most well-known Thai restaurant, which gave rise to outposts in New York City and Los Angeles, as well as one that loomed large over Ninsom’s early projects (and where Nelson once worked).

And the crew was ready to go on a research trip to study Northern Thai cuisine, which had been Pok Pok’s specialty, much as they had done with Bangkok-style Chinese food at Yaowarat in the Montavilla district.

Although the restaurateur behind the James Beard Award winner for America’s best outstanding restaurant in 2024 tells me the lease has not yet been finalized, Ninsom has since discussed the concept with a number of people.

What plans might they have for the area, then?

On Wednesday, I was sent by a friend to the Instagram account of OK Chicken and Khao Soi, a brand-new late-night karaoke and midnight chicken restaurant, where Ninsom, Nelson, and Smith were featured. Among the meals the team had sampled in Thailand were som tum (papaya salad), laab muang (Northern Thai laab), sai oua (fresh sausage), and some really unusual-looking chicken wings. The captions for the photos were penned in Nelson’s trademark all-caps manner. And hold on, was that a dish of diced up Pok Pok-style entire roasted chicken?

Additionally, a picture of the Pok Pok sign was included, with the initial P of the second word—ok—crossed off.

If all goes according to plan, OK Chicken and Khao Soi will debut at 3226 S.E. Division St. this winter.

Russell, Michael; Russell@Oregonian.com

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